Training guide
Puppy Leash Training
How to teach a puppy to walk on a leash: introduce the equipment, reward a loose leash, build up distractions gradually and know when to get help. A practical guide for new puppy owners.
Short answer
Puppy leash training means getting your puppy comfortable with the leash, then rewarding a loose leash so that walking beside you pays and pulling does not. Aim for a puppy who moves with you and can still look around, built up gradually with rewards, not leash jerks.[1][2][3][4]
This guide fits you if your puppy is new to the leash, or pulls, freezes or chews the leash on walks, and you want a reward-based way to teach walking.
What good leash walking means
Good leash walking is not robotic heelwork. A practical target is a puppy who moves with you, keeps the leash loose for the situation, can still sniff and explore, and is easy for you to manage safely.[2][6]
Leash walking is not intuitive for a puppy: some drag their owner, some freeze and some lie down.[1] UC Davis says the most common cause of pulling is a lack of proper training, though breeds bred to pull can be harder.[3] A dog’s normal walking speed is also faster than yours, which makes a loose leash harder.[2]
Sources differ on method and tools. UC Davis teaches a combination of positive and negative reinforcement, such as relief of pressure on the neck when pulling stops, and describes turning with a pull back strong enough to get the dog’s attention.[3] AVSAB recommends only reward-based methods and lists leash jerks as aversive.[4] This guide teaches the reward-based approach and does not teach leash pulls.
Start with the leash before the walk
Begin at home. Attach the leash for short periods while you play together, and give your puppy treats when the leash comes out.[1] Puppies are not born understanding leashes, and leash training can start even if your puppy is not fully vaccinated and not going out yet.[6] Ask your veterinarian when your puppy can go to public places.
Watch how your puppy reacts and go at their pace, since some freeze or lie down at first.[1] Once the leash is no big deal, practice walking indoors, rewarding your puppy as they walk beside you.[1]
Teach your puppy what a loose leash earns
The rule is simple: a loose leash keeps the walk going and a tight leash does not. Keep it the same every time, so that pulling never becomes the way to get where your puppy wants to go.[2]
Build connection without demanding constant focus
Your puppy does not need to look at you for the whole walk. AKC suggests rewarding check-ins and eye contact, and, when your puppy reaches the end of the leash, calling their name and rewarding them when they look back and return.[6] A cue such as “let’s go” paired with moving off, with a reward every few steps, tells your puppy when you are about to move.[6] If your puppy needs a prompt, you can call their name or talk to them to encourage a loose leash.[2]
Leave room for exploring. AKC suggests some “sniffy walks” where your puppy chooses the direction, instead of insisting on a fixed position the whole time.[6]
Make it harder one step at a time
Move to a harder setting only when your puppy is succeeding at the current one. Outdoors, it may be best to start in front of your home.[1] Increase the amount of walking and the distractions gradually.[3] Outdoor places are more stimulating, so keep high-value treats plentiful.[6] Start sessions after your puppy has had enough exercise, not as a substitute for exercise.[3]
Equipment: what it can and cannot do
Equipment does not teach walking. UC Davis calls tools “just tools” and says dogs still need training to walk well on a leash.[3] The sources do not agree on one best option, so the table shows what each says. Puppies grow quickly, so check fit often. RSPCA Australia suggests checking that you can slide two fingers comfortably under a collar.[8]
| Equipment | What the sources say |
|---|---|
| Front-attach harness | AKC prefers harnesses to avoid neck pressure and suggests a front clip for large puppies.[6] RSPCA Australia recommends one for persistent pullers.[8] UC Davis says front attachment decreases pulling, but some dogs still pull.[3] |
| Head collar | The SF SPCA suggests a head halter to help you stay consistent.[2] UC Davis says it controls the head but may be mistaken for a muzzle and needs gradual getting used to.[3] RSPCA Australia says front-attach harnesses have largely replaced head collars because of possible discomfort and varied tolerance.[8] |
| Flat collar | UC Davis says it is easy to use, but the dog can still pull.[3] AKC lists leather or nylon collars as an alternative to a harness.[6] |
| Retractable leash | AKC and the SF SPCA advise against it. The SF SPCA says it gives to a pulling dog and teaches pulling.[2][6] |
| Choke or prong collar | RSPCA Australia says they must not be used because they cause pain and distress.[8] UC Davis says they are difficult to use correctly and can cause neck injury.[3] |
Avoid equipment that works through pain or fear. AVSAB lists prong collars, shock collars and leash jerks as aversive methods and recommends only reward-based training.[4] This guide cannot recommend equipment for a puppy with a health condition, so ask your veterinarian.
When it is not working
- Your puppy pulls toward something interesting
Check Whether pulling has been getting your puppy where they want to go.[2]
Try Stop, wait for a slack leash, then walk on. If it keeps happening, practice further from the temptation.[2][7]
- Your puppy stops, freezes or lies down
Check Whether leash walking is still new, since some puppies freeze or lie down.[1]
Try Go back to indoor practice, give treats when the leash comes out, and reward steps beside you before trying outdoors again.[1]
- Your puppy is constantly distracted, or walks turn chaotic around distractions
Check Whether the place is too stimulating for your puppy’s current level.[6][7]
Try Move somewhere quieter or further from the distraction, use high-value treats, reward check-ins, and allow some sniffing.[6][7]
Pulling, dawdling and leash chewing are usually training issues. Ask a veterinarian first if your puppy seems unwell or in pain, or their behavior changes suddenly, because medical problems can affect behavior.[5] If your puppy shows fear, panic, repeated attempts to escape or aggression, or you cannot manage walks safely, ask a veterinarian, who may refer you to a veterinary behaviorist; UC Davis says fear, anxiety and aggression need assessment by a veterinary behaviorist and should be addressed before loose-leash training.[3][5] If problems continue while you walk, VCA advises reaching out to your veterinary care team.[1] Choose a professional who uses reward-based methods.[4][5]
Sources
- How To Leash Train A Puppy (opens another site)
- Dog: Loose-Leash Walking (opens another site)
- Loose Leash Walking (opens another site)
- Why You Need To Reward Your Dog in Training, According to the Experts (opens another site)
- Selecting a Behavior Consultant (opens another site)
- How to Teach a Puppy to Walk on a Leash (opens another site)
- Puppy Behavior and Training: Sit, Down, Stand and Stay (opens another site)
- What equipment should I use when teaching my dog or puppy to walk on a leash? (opens another site)