Training guide
Puppy Barking
How to understand why a puppy barks or whines and reduce it with reward-based methods: find the cause, manage triggers, stop rewarding demands and reward quiet. A practical guide for new puppy owners.
Short answer
Barking is normal communication, so start by working out why your puppy is barking, because the right response depends on the cause.[1][2] In general, do not reward barking that demands something, manage the triggers, meet your puppy’s needs for exercise and stimulation, and reward quiet or an alternative behavior.[3][4]
This guide fits you if your puppy barks, whines or yaps more than you want and you want a reward-based way to understand and reduce it.
Why puppies bark
Dogs bark to communicate, so the same bark can mean different things.[2] The sources name these main causes: wanting attention or something else, alerting or guarding, excitement or frustration, boredom or unmet needs, and fear or anxiety.[1][2][4] ASPCA and AKC both say to work out why your dog barks before trying to reduce it.[1][3] Cornell suggests listening to the bark and noting when and where it happens, including the time of day and what is going on outside.[2]
Expect to reduce barking rather than end it. ASPCA says a quick fix is not realistic, the goal should be to decrease rather than eliminate barking, and some dogs are more prone to barking than others.[1] Most of the sources below are written about dogs of any age, and none gives a normal amount of barking for a puppy, so this guide does not either.
Attention or demand barking
Some dogs bark or whine to get attention, food, play, or to be let in or out. ASPCA says this pattern does not happen by accident: it is usually learned, often because owners reward it without meaning to, even with eye contact, touching, scolding or talking.[1] Tufts’ veterinary behaviorist adds that whatever starts these behaviors, they are maintained by learning.[5]
The plan is to stop rewarding it. Turn away or leave the room, and reward the moment your dog is quiet.[1][3] Tufts suggests leaving the room and closing the door to escape persistent barking.[5] Yelling does not help, because even negative attention is still attention.[3] Tufts and the SF SPCA both warn that it can get worse before it gets better, since your dog is frustrated at first, and Tufts says everyone in the household must follow the same plan.[4][5] Meet real needs on a schedule too: the SF SPCA suggests taking your dog out at regular intervals, none of them preceded by barking.[4] Whining in the crate is covered in the Puppy Crate Training guide.
Alert and territorial barking
Alert barking is a reaction to sights and sounds, and territorial barking is a reaction to people or animals near familiar places such as the home, yard or car.[1][2] This kind of barking can be self-rewarding, because the barking seems to make the person or animal go away.[3]
Management comes first. Block the view with translucent window film or by blocking access to windows,[1][2] limit access to rooms facing the street and to the front door area,[4] and mask outside noise with music or the television.[2] Do not leave your dog alone in the yard: AKC says that can mean barking at every squirrel and passerby,[3] and ASPCA says barking with no one around gets stronger.[1] ASPCA also advises against encouraging barking at sounds by asking “Who’s there?” or looking out the window, and says to be consistent about which sounds are acceptable.[1]
Excitement and frustration barking
Dogs also bark in play, to greet people, or when they are excited but cannot get to something they want, such as a visitor or a playmate behind a fence.[1][2] For greeting barking, ASPCA says to keep greetings low key and to give your dog something to do, such as holding a favorite toy,[1] and the SF SPCA likewise suggests giving an excited dog something to carry.[4] For frustration, ASPCA suggests teaching your dog to wait before getting something fun, such as a walk.[1] Mouthing and nipping during play or greetings are covered in the Puppy Biting & Chewing guide.
Visitors and everyday situations
Doorbells and arrivals are a common trigger. AKC suggests not letting an overstimulated dog greet guests at the door: keep it away from the entryway with a dog gate or exercise pen, and let it greet guests once it has calmed down.[3] Both AKC and ASPCA describe teaching a “go to your place” cue so your dog has somewhere calm to be when people come in.[1][3] Cornell suggests giving a safe long-lasting chew or toys to occupy your dog and putting a fearful dog in a safe place when company comes over.[2]
Boredom and under-stimulation
The SF SPCA says boredom or loneliness barking happens when a dog’s daily needs for companionship, exercise and social stimulation are not met, and that there is no quick fix or training solution: you must meet those needs.[4] Cornell says boredom barking is common in high-energy dogs that do not get enough physical and mental stimulation, and suggests toys your dog likes, daily mental and physical exercise, and short practice of a known behavior whenever you get up from your desk or the couch.[2] AKC adds that time alone in the yard is not a substitute for mental stimulation and exercise.[3]
Fear or anxiety as a cause
Cornell says barking can be a way to make a scary person or animal go away, and that it is often part of other reactivity behaviors.[2] ASPCA says territorial behavior is often motivated by both fear and anticipation of a perceived threat.[1] If you think fear is behind the barking, avoid or limit the triggers and give your dog a safe place away from visitors.[2][4] Never punish barking that comes from fear or anxiety, because it could make your dog feel worse and the barking might increase.[1] Barking or whining that happens only when your puppy is left alone can have several causes, including attention, alerting, boredom or anxiety about the separation, and the SF SPCA advises against guessing.[4] Ask your veterinarian for guidance, who may refer you to a qualified behavior professional or a veterinary behaviorist.[7]
Reward quiet and an alternative behavior
AKC says ignoring attention barking can frustrate your dog and does not give a more appropriate way to communicate, so teach an alternative way to earn attention, such as lying at your feet or sitting quietly and making eye contact. Cue that behavior when your dog is asking for attention, then reward it with the attention your dog wants.[3] Tufts similarly suggests rewarding your dog when it comes to you for attention without barking.[5] Teaching sit is covered in the Puppy Basic Obedience guide.
You can also reward quiet itself. AKC’s method is to reward the moment your dog stops barking, even for a second, then gradually extend how long it stays quiet before the reward, and add a cue such as “quiet” once you can predict the pause.[3] Cornell suggests giving calm praise or rewards when your dog is resting quietly.[2] For asking to go outside, ASPCA and Cornell both suggest teaching your dog to ring a bell instead of barking at the door.[1][2]
What not to do
Do not punish barking. AVSAB recommends reward-based methods for all training and lists shock collars, shake cans, shouting and leash jerks among aversive methods.[6] AKC says that spray, ultrasonic and electronic devices all work by positive punishment, which it says harms a dog’s physical and mental health and is no more effective than reward-based techniques, and it advises seeing a certified trainer or behaviorist before using such tools.[3] Cornell advises addressing the cause rather than using anti-bark or shock collars or other negative devices.[2] This guide teaches no device and no aversive method, and recommends no products.
Some sources go further than this guide. ASPCA’s page describes holding a dog’s muzzle closed, making a startling noise by shaking keys or a can of coins, and using a head halter, and it calls anti-bark collars punishment devices that are not a first choice.[1] The SF SPCA says that if a collar is used, citronella or ultrasonic collars are the best options, and that shock collars must never be used.[4] AVSAB recommends only reward-based methods.[6] This guide follows AVSAB and teaches none of those steps.
When it is not working
- Barking gets louder when you ignore it
Check Whether barking has worked for your puppy before, and whether anyone gave in this time.[4][5]
Try Keep ignoring it and reward the quiet. Tufts says that once you start ignoring, you must persist, and that leaving the room and closing the door can help.[5]
- Your puppy barks at every sound or sight outside
Check What your puppy can see and hear, including distant sounds.[2]
Try Block the view, limit access to street-facing rooms, mask sounds with music or the television, and do not leave your puppy alone in the yard.[2][3][4]
If your puppy starts barking or whining suddenly for no clear reason, or seems unwell or in pain, ask your veterinarian first: ASPCA says dogs sometimes bark in response to pain and advises a veterinary exam to rule out medical causes before treating a barking problem,[1] and AVSAB notes that medical concerns can affect behavior.[7] If the barking comes with fear, aggression or panic, or is severe or persistent, ask a qualified behavior professional or a veterinary behaviorist. ASPCA suggests this for compulsive barking,[1] Cornell for barking caused by fear or aggression,[2] and AKC when barking is frequent, emotionally intense, fear-based or worsening.[3] Choose a professional who uses reward-based methods and avoids shock, choke and prong collars.[6][7]
Sources
- Barking (opens another site)
- Excessive barking (opens another site)
- Expert Tips to Help Curb Excessive Dog Barking (opens another site)
- Dog: Barking (opens another site)
- How to Stop Attention-Seeking Behavior (opens another site)
- Why You Need To Reward Your Dog in Training, According to the Experts (opens another site)
- Selecting a Behavior Consultant (opens another site)